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OEM Bimmer Parts

This message is marked as Important.
Subject: Getting sealant evenly over the seam between the gasket and metal is key.
Author: spalding : member since May, 2004 : 376 posts
Posted on: 2005-07-13 20:28:28      
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Did this job myself - not hard at all, if you are patient. The key, I found, is to make sure that the gasket seals seamlessly with the bodywork at the upper, exposed edge of the gasket. It's hard to describe, but as you know, the trunk gasket on an e28 is glued to the body work that comprises the opening to the trunk -- the rear fenders and on the metal piece immediately at the bottom of the rear window. The trunk lid then sits on the inner, flexible part of the gasket, forming a (hopefully) water-tight seal.

My trunk started leaking not because the trunk lid wasn't seated onto the gasket, but because the adhesive sealing the gasket to the surrounding metalwork developed a gap. Water got in behind the gasket before it ever hit the trunk lid or the seal made where the trunk lid meets the gasket. So the gasket wasn't faulty, as such; rather, the exposed upper edge of the gasket had pulled away from the metal. Water got into the metal channel into which the gasket is attached, leading to extensive rust underneath the gasket. That was a pain to repair.

So, all that said, make sure not to scrimp on the adhesive when installing the new gasket, and make sure a water-tight seal is created where the gasket contacts the metal surrounding the trunk, to make sure water doesn't get underneath the gasket. It's not hard, just be patient and watch it as the adhesive cures, to make sure no gaps open up. After making sure that the trunk lid is adjusted properly and seats firmly onto the new gasket, it is best to leave the trunk lid open until the adhesive dries completely. That will prevent the downward pressure of the trunk lid from causing the gasket to pull away from the surrounding metal.

Good luck!



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